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ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING
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• Mercedes Sprinter How To Videos (everything there is to know about the Sprinter) Currently we are Filming Season 2 for 2017 and Already we made Enough Videos to Upload Daily, January Videos are about Electrical Problems. Like ECM, TCM, Egnission Switch, Tumbler, Immobilizer, Skreem Modual, Fuse Panel, Air Bag, Horn, Hazard Light Switch, Electrical Harness, Engine Staling While Driving Problems and Solutions and General maintenance Like Changing Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Cabin Filter, Wiper Blades and Arms, Adding Fluids, Repairing or replacing wore out or broken parts and Upkeep.
• Right Now we are Filming Sprinter How To Videos for February, Here is what you Can Expect, it will be about Replacing Rear Deferential, Complete Guide, everything there is to know about the Rear Deferential, Barings, Rotors, Brakes, ABS Sensors, and Lots More, Also the Break Down of Rear Deferential and Rebuild.
• In March We will Be Focusing on More Sprinter Content, Like Taking Apart and Engine, and Replacing a Head Guesket, Fuel Injectors, a Starter, Rebuilding a 722 Transmission, Replacing Rear Baring and seals, Replacing Front Control Arms, Barings, rotors and Breaks, steering column assembly and Tie Rods, and Upgrading Horn and many More Videos
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Ok Guys, This is an update from my comment below. I called the supplier (German Auto Supply)of the conductor plate and told them what happened . I did not whine and complain or try to blame their product, I just told them what happened and asked if there was anything they could do to help . I did say " the pin may have been bent but I didn"t notice it" Anyway, They called me back in an hour or so and said "We nor The manufacturer have never heard of this happening, We are going to send you another conductor plate at no charge. All we ask is that you send back the one with the broken pin" I was AMAZED!!! I couldn't believe what I was hearing!! I am not used to this kind of service in this world we live in. I had to pinch myself , thought maybe my sprinter and I had died and somehow made it to heaven! I probably thanked them way too many times, but I am grateful for how they treated me. Now here is the important information I want to share........ the 2nd time around I realized there is a very simple and safe way to do this. Take the old conductor plate ( on the bench) and take a few minutes to study the pin configuration. Now count the pins. There are actually only 12 pins . (its called a 13 pin connector because there is room for 13 but this application has only 12) Ok, now take the new 13 pin connector adapter and slide the 2nd O ring on and apply some vasoline petroleum jelly to them. (transmission shop shared this ) now get a really good light and a mirror. use the mirror and light to look in the hole ( on the vehicle now)at the conductor plate pins and align the 13 pin adapter in the transmission boss and you will feel it find alignment and can confirm with mirror. Now look at the pins that should be visible through the adapter holes . They all should be visible just starting through each hole. Confirm there are 12 visible and none are bent or misaligned . Now gently push it in, but just a tad. DO NOT try to push it in all the way by hand. You are only making sure it is started on its way home. Now look again with light and mirror. If all looks good carefully insert the 7MM socket and gently tighten the bolt. Let the bolt do the work for you. It is in the center and should pull the adapter in place evenly. I just snugged it as I have seen where some guys have snapped the bolt off. I didn't want to experience that much fun so I stopped when when it was just snug . You also can tell from the outside that the shoulder is home. The plastic lock ring tab should be down, Now with the connector that connected to the harness use the light and mirror to locate pins as before and carefully slide it into place, Don't try to force it all the way in. Slide the lock ring tab up and it should click and the connector should glide right in. if there is any resistance stop and investigate. ..........Hope this helps any who are not familiar with this or a bit nervous with this whole procedure.
Have a 2011 Benz that went into limp mode but I can still drive 70 on hi way. The code on reader is P0653. Do you think it is related to this? If not do u have any idea about what direction I could go in trouble shooting. Thanks
First of all, if you can drive 70 miles per hour, you are NOT in limp mode.
Second of all, 2011 Mercedes, what is the model?
Third, what diagnostic tool or scanner did you use to read the codes?
All these things are very important your possible problem with your Mercedes.
P0653 code definition
The P0653 trouble code detects a problem with the sensor reference voltage “B” circuit.
What the P0653 code means
The P0653 code is a standard OBD-II trouble code that signals an error with the sensor reference voltage “B” circuit. The “B” circuit is a specific area of the sensor reference circuit, as opposed to a specific component of the circuit. The engine drivability sensors send 5-volt reference signals to the powertrain control module (PCM), and many other control modules, such as the instrument panel control module, traction control module, cruise control module, and climate control module. When the PCM or any of these other control modules notes a fault in the signals from these sensors, the P0653 trouble code will be detected.
What causes the P0653 code?
The majority of the issues that cause the P0653 trouble code to be detected are electrical:
Malfunctioning electrical components between the interfacing control modules
Malfunctioning ground wires in the PCM
Malfunctioning ground wires in other control modules
In rare cases, a defective PCM or other control module
Malfunctioning electrical components between the engine sensors and the PCM input circuitry
What are the symptoms of the P0653 code?
When the P0653 trouble code is detected, it will likely be accompanied by the Check Engine Light lighting up on the instrument panel. It is also very common for the vehicle to experience diminished engine performance, such as constant misfiring, low power, a rough idle, and an inability to start. Fuel efficiency will likely be diminished as well.
How does a mechanic diagnose the P0653 code?
The P0653 code should be diagnosed with the help of a standard OBD-II trouble code scanner. A trustworthy technician will use the scanner to observe the freeze frame data and gather information about the code.
The technician will also note any additional trouble codes that are present, as all codes should be addressed in the order in which they appear.
The mechanic will then reset the trouble codes and restart the vehicle, to see if the codes return. If the codes disappear after this reset and restart, then they likely are the result of an intermittent issue, or they were triggered erroneously.
If the P0653 code returns, the mechanic should begin with a visual inspection that covers all electrical components that could be in play. The wires, connectors, and fuses between the engine sensors and the PCM input circuitry should all be inspected, as should those that run between the interfacing control modules. Next, the ground wires in all control modules should be examined.
If the issue has not been found, the mechanic should begin inspecting the control modules to look for components that are defective, or entire modules that are malfunctioning. This can be done manually, or it can be done with the aid of a controller area network (CAN) bus scanner.
Whenever a component in the vehicle is replaced, the mechanic should reset the codes and restart the vehicle before continuing with the inspection and repairs. This assures that the mechanic will be alerted as soon as the issue is resolved.
Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0653 code
The most common mistakes that are made when diagnosing the P0653 code come from a failure to properly obey the OBD-II diagnosis protocol. The protocol should be adhered to, step by step, at all times, to guarantee an accurate and efficient inspection and repair.
Since the P0653 trouble code impacts communication, it is common for additional codes to be present as a result of the P0653 code. It can be common for these additional codes to be dealt with before the P0653 code, which can lead to fruitless repairs. Trouble codes should always be handled in the order in which they are shown in the freeze frame data.
How serious is the P0653 code?
A vehicle that has a detected P0653 trouble code is likely still drivable. However, the car will probably experience depleted engine performance, and should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible.
What repairs can fix the P0653 code?
Repairs for the P0653 trouble code include:
Replacement of ground wires
Replacement of electrical components between the interfacing control modules
Replacement of the PCM or other control modules
Replacement of electrical components between the PCM input circuitry and the engine sensors
Thanks for sharing all the info. You're just a selfless guy, we all should be like that, the world would be a better place. just to let you and everyone else know. he is absolutely correct you must be EXTREMELY cautious with the 13 pin connector assembly. And you CAN bend the pins. I know I did it last night. and when you try to straighten the bent one out it will snap off and fall down into the transmission. I was gently pushing the connector housing into the transmission case and met a little resistance. I thought it was the o rings getting tight just before it got seated. evidently one of the pins was slightly bent and when i pushed a little harder it bent over. but I didn't know it happened. I thought it was in place. I tried to tighten the 7mm hex screw but it would not start. I got a mirror and saw something didn't look right. I then pulled it back out and saw one pin bent completely over. I tried to reach in and straighten it but it ended up breaking off. ( stainless , brittle) and falling down into the pan. (luckily) . What a horror show. first time doing my own sprinter transmission service. Now I have to take everything apart again and replace the brand new conductor plate with another new one. Don't apply much force to the the 13 pin connector, also don't rock it sideways . It should slide in fairly easy when everything is lined up. It is especially difficult when you are working under the vehicle. You can't really see what you're doing. Good Luck!
Your 99 230 SLK is supercharged, similar to a turbo charged car but different. Did you try to read the diagnostic codes with a scanner?
White smoke could mean burning oil or it can mean burning coolant. Your car is supercharged, as I stated, and usually with superchargers the cooling of the air pressure/boost is done by a "liquid cooled intercooler", which means that the coolant from the radiator also cools the air pressure/boost. If you have a leaking intercooler, all that coolant will end up inside your cylinders and effect your fuel to air ration, resulting in very poor performance and possibly destroy your engine if you don't fix it.
Did you experience a loss in coolant level?
please help... i have e290 automatic transmission.. and it suddenly got into limp mode... i tested it and it showed up an error on the computer "speed sensor"... after the error is deleted the car runs ok, but after i stop the car and start it again... the error comes back. what could it be?
More likely the problem is in the transmission, the conductor's plate is bad. A little side note, when talking about speed sensors, it is important to know which ones are we talking about. There are 2, in and out, speed sensors inside of the transmission that are part of the conductor's plate, but there are 4 wheel speed sensors also, that could put you in limp mode, theoretically speaking. I never heard of a limp mode due to a bad wheel speed sensor, but it is possible.
Your videos are extremely helpful! Thank you! I have a 2005 3500 with 250K mostly long-haul miles. Several months back I somehow cut the trans oil cooler line while driving through Ohio (from LA). The radiator-end fitting stripped and the line popped out. I think I was fortunate, despite quickly overheating both engine and transmission. After the line cut, the serpinetine belt went, which stopped the fan and water pump spinning. And I was driving about 70. I've had a new fitting put on the radiator and all new lines and engine hoses, serpentine belt. since there is no dipstick I've added the approx level of atf you recommend. The trans is in limp mode. I presume there is no warning indicator that lights to show limp mode...the warning is being stuck in first or second gear, correct?
If the trans oil cooler line was cut, would that affect the seals on the 13 pin connector, conductor plate or speed sensors? Or do you think I simply need to clear the codes. Grateful for your guidance. Larry
+Larry Morris your most welcome, I am
Sorry to Here about your situation, it’s unfortunate to say the least everything just hitting you at once, sucks how this happened, I am glad my videos help, my recommended Transmission Fluid is good, if you completely drained transmission fluid, if you did then 7.9 to 8 quarts would work, just the oil pan about 4 to 4.5 quarts, but sounds like you lost all fluid causing it to over heat, I think that’s what cause the Limp Mode and possibly no fluid would do it, about 13 pin connector, I recommend replacing but it would not be effected by this, but to be sure look at the TCM connector pins under your seat, if they are dry then your good, so if all this checks out just reset the light, and yes no light to indicate Limp Mode, but one thing you will see is it’s just stuck in D Mode it does not show what gear your in, a big red flag that it’s Limp Mode, hope this helps
+Jonathan c I have my Thoughts and a link for you, that talks about this code in detail, Normaly a speed sensor problem with 2006 Sprinter is, a problem with the transmission, Speed sensor is part of Conductor plate, it’s Dirty with metal Dust and grime, speed sensor can’t tell how fast your going, it may cause strange shifting, you might notice that you were driving in 5th gear but you look at the dash and it’s speed 4, it might even shift to 3 and in worst case scenario your transmission will get stuck in D and will not shift, normal Limp Mode is you will be in second gear, cans drive faster then 30mph, it’s enough to get to a safe location or transmission shop, you should just remove transmission pan, remove 13 pin connector completely, then remove valve body, clean speed sensor, I have videos showing you what it looks like in season 1, I hope this helps, let me know, I will send link in next reply
+Dimitriy Perchik this information is very helpful and useful thanks so much Dimitriy I did not know you can buy a cheep computer to reset TCM and DEF I thought was not possible but only Dealership can do it, I don't have DEF in 2006 but obviously this is helpful when you get that pesky start count down, thanks again for sharing this I will look that device up
Reprogram or simply delete the codes from the TCM? To reprogram you'll have to have a DAS system that dealers use. To simply clear codes and take you out of limp mode, you can get yourself an iCarsoft MB II scanner, just make sure you do an update on it first, for $159.00.
iCarsoft MB II scanner is able to reset the limp mode on transmission and DEF limp mode. I have done it myself, TCM reset/clear limp mode on 2008 Dodge Sprinter, after I changed the conductor plate, and clear/reset the Limp mode, due to running the van empty of DEF, on a 2015 Mercedes Sprinter.
The trick is that you have to log in each individual control unit, TCM and DEF modules, to clear and reset codes and after to clear and reset from the OBDII side. This scanner is able to log into 17 control modules on the 2008 Sprinter and 20 on the 2015, and it can do a forced regeneration on both.
On 2006 Sprinter, this scanner will reset pretty much everything. Never had a limp mode on 2006. The 2004 - 2006 Sprinters are lot more reliable and easier to work on, except for the fuel injectors, than the newer ones.
+GEAR HEAD you know you don't need a scanner, here's how to do it free, clean your conductor plate speed sensor, then replace all Transmission Fluid 8.5 quarts to 9 quarts, this is if you will drain Torque converter, but if you just drain oil pan it's ok you just need about 4 quarts in this case just measure what you take out but your safe with 4, then drive the van to a transmission shop, make sure it's free diagnosis and ask them nicely to clear your Transmission codes, I recommend call around to get a free one.
I had same problem this is how I did it, I got mine diagnosed at 650k was told I need $3700 of work done, well I ask them kindly just to clear my codes and they did that, it was nice of them, but I think if you ask nice they can do it, and if this solves your problem then you know your in the clear, I recommend Tipping the guy after he deletes the codes just tell him Lunch on me I think $20 bucks will be generous He would clear it anyway, but the good thing is next time you have a problem you will get good service hope this helps
before I find the fried wires I was able to get it to switch gears whith the sacaner is wen I replace the fried wires don't switch gears.
is actually the brake pads ground wire the fried and that wire is around bunch of wires going to the back of the van front the junction on the middle behind the fuel tank is bad .
going to the front of the van wires are fine no burn there
+steve omegas here's a link for $6 Transmission Fluid American made This will work great
+steve omegas lol wow just wow one more mechanic crook taking advantage of a costumer yeah that fluid don't cost 40 or even 23, but normally it's 14-17 per quart it's ATF 134, but I go even further and just spend $5 per quart I use Valvoline max life Oil Red can and if you look in the back it will say Mercedes Neg 1 Transmission and this is the same transmission which is 5 speed hydraulic transmission, why American Brand oil you might ask or not but I will tell you anyway and it's because when Daimler Chrysler had a close relationship with Mercedes they started using Mercedes Transmissions in many cars and even some jeeps, Jeep Liberty for instance has our transmission if you look under it you can clearly see 13 pin connector and this is something to keep in mind if yours ever break Also Dodge Charger and Chrysler Sebring Chrysler Sunfire amongst other cars, you will be surprised how many cars share parts and if you know where to look you can save some money, so this is why the $5 per quart of Valvoline max life will work just fine in a 722 Mercedes Transmission is practically same thing, but try telling this to a mechanic and you will be a laughing stock, but don't let that fool you at the end of the day your the smart one and your Dollar just went further, How ever speaking of the leek it's definitely not your oil pan but it is the oil pan seal, and not sure what you meant by O ring because 13 pin connector has O ring and yes they tend to leek because of it, and I never replace just the O ring, but it will work replacing it for sure, but due to the part being plastic I rather replace with new for $7 bucks for 13 pin connector and call it a day, Also be careful not to strip the transmission threads when installing the oil pan back, it's easy to strip them, before I knew anything about transmission I also tick it to a shop but later that year I started doing all my own service and I discovered 2 striped threads, I fixed them and it never leek sense but this is like 5 years ago before my YouTube channel, I been driving a sprinter sense 2007 and slowly learnd all I can to save money and now I have a pleasure to say I like to help others with Sprinters if I can, so anytime you have a problem let me know on any of my videos and I will respond same day maybe even sane hr who knows but I monitor my YouTube comments closely I don't want to miss a thing, and also I would like to thank you for taking your time to watch my videos likeng them and asking questions or just comments, this helps my channel get more exposure and it's allot more possible to help more viewers
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING oh I will, trust me. last week I gave a mechanic that I knew the benefit of the doubt to service the transmition. he charged me 560$ cause he said the fluid was 40$ per quart. to make a long story short the next day i noticed a leak around the pan of the transmition so I decided to go to the dealership. prior to that I called the same mechanic that did the service on it to tell him about it. hes response was that I needed a new pan. i dont know about anybody else but that didn't sound very convincing to me. thank God I got lucky at the dealer though and the parts guy told me I should change the o-ring and gave me an extra quart of fluid too so i can top it off after words. btw the same fluid was 23$ from the dealer instead of 40$. red flag on the mechanics behalf right there. I changed the o-ring my self which that one cost 53$ and leak problem solved. so yeah..i 'll figure out what's wrong this time too. it must a stubborn foreigner thing.lol.thanks again.
+Pedro Regalado ohh Dang, well that Explains it How it was Fried, I used to do welding to, but normally you put ground wire from welder on to metal that your welding, I am just not sure how that could have caused all this, Wow I don't know how much trouble are you in for, But to let you know about ABS ESP Traction control, you can't clear them with the computer, they go away by them self, But biggest problem about does lights is that if they stay on and don't go away and cause transmission not to shift, well that's cause by the Break Light Switch look this part up on Google it's a sensor that goes behind the break pedal and it's a common problem, they do fail, sometimes does lights are cause by the ABS sensors on rear wheel hubs, but usually it does not cause a huge problem, just a small problem at 5-10Mph speeds the Traction control just goes crazy causing premature breaking, but at least you will still have your transmission
the only code is speed sensor I replace that already in replace all the fried wires try to reset the computer those lights won't go away no codes on transmission or the engine .
I did a little of welding 4 days ago I disconnected the battery before I started welding after I finish it happen don't know what to do anymore if u have any ideas I will appreciate thank you
+Pedro Regalado about the Ground wire, not sure what you mean, but if it really fried, there must have been a Short or the battery connections were connected wrong for this to happen, but then you would have bigger electrical problems and fried circuits
hello serge I have a 2005 sprinter 3500 and first started to loose power like once a week then it did it all the time by watching your videos I replaced the conductor plate and the conector and the fluid on the transmission and no change at all it looks like is on first or second gear while I drive and the gear lever won't change from the D letter like before please help.thanks
+armando arroyo ok I see now, well it's simple, it's good you changed the conductor plate, and 13 pin connection, and I hope u did it correctly, so now all you got to do is reset transmission codes, and you can't use just any check Engine computer to erase the codes, you might need to ask a transmission shop to clear it, find one that will do it free
hey serge is 43K miles I am original owner I only drive local now, the transmission do not slips it stays on a lower gear I don't know if is first second or third but it does not change at all and the shift moves but it won't change from D
+armando arroyo how many miles on sprinter? Do you drive local? Long distance? If it's above 150k and you drive local, you will need new clutches and Torque convertor, that's why it slips, then sometimes a solenoid will stick, I am not an expert but if it's transmission related that's what I would do
+Numericcash its hard to say, depends how it kicks, how hard sometimes it's not even related to Transmission, and in other cases it is, if it Slipping it might kick, that will be Torque convertor or Clutches, and solenoid might be sticking, but it can be as simple as adding right amount of Transmission Fluid, or Fluid change, Others might be simple to but not that simple if you never dealt with Taking apart transmission, like dropping the valve body and cleaning the conductor plate speed sensor and silicosis, You can Start by Replacing Craft Shaft position sensor, if its bad it will kick to, but its easy and cheep
So... great video - I have a question... before I start. My truck is a GLK350 (same Mercedes) and I got the error u0402 which is the TCM going haywire. Although they're fixing it as we speak - am I going to face the same issue again in the future?
+Jaime Melara +Jaime Melara most likely, its just a problem with sensor getting dirty with metal deposits, and transmission cant tell how fast you are driving so it puts it in limp mode, meaning it wont shift, its hard to avoide the problem, but best you can do is change transmission Oil every 30k, i do it every 60, but i clean the speed sensor when i do it, and its a full oil change not just whats in the pan, but unfortunatly, Dealer can only drain your Torque convertor, i dont belive there is a nut, (drain plug) but luckyli my torque converter has it, but changing it every 30k even half way does the trick, But there is one other thing you can do, that neeing just change transmission flued Drain it put new, drive it for 50 miles or so, drain pan and do it like 3 times it should be clean by then, Dealer usialy dont change torque converter flued but if they did, they can suck it out or use presure to remove it, not sure what the proper name would be for the prosidure, i seen some guys do it by tyrning there car on while they drain all oil and shift it through the gears, That will get the oil out for sure! BUT i dont recomend it, i think its bad for silinoids to run dry, you could be looking at more problems, just not worth it
Hey I could really use your help right now. So I tried to remove the 13 pin connector, replaced it and now its in limp mode codes p0702 trans cpntrol sys electrical, 0715 turbine sensor I need this van for the tomorrow and sunday to work, please help. Thank you.
+dojo hello dojo looks like yes limp mode you'll need to have the cold reset there's really not much I could do you hear they come on for reason you probably got dirty i'm speed sensors or you install the thirteen pin connector wrong
hey there, I just bought a sprinter 2005 2.7 I was so happy to get my first diesel engine and I went for road test and I like it so I bought it. but after a few miles transmission got stuck on I guess 2 or 3rd gear and it wont go anywhere up or down so I turned off and turn it back on everything start working fine so I thought let me get an oil changed I changed oil and filter I put 10w30 I think +4 for crysler or from crysler I drove about 120 miles with no issue but then it start getting stuck on fourth so I did the same turn it off and turn back on it happened like 3 times then I stop on service welcome center turn it back on to get back on the road and It wont shift it got stuck on first gear check engine light came on so I decide it to reset the chek engine light by disconnecting the battery so I could probably make it to where I was going but then after that it wont start everytime I tried it says error start. and had to get towed about $400 I'm really upset because I was so exited about it specially with fuel economy. PLEASE HELP ANY TIPS. I will really appreciate it.
thumbs up for you Man! your fucken awesome no dough about that !! and yes your right there isnt any videos like this online that explanes what needs to be done with detail step by step , i been doing re search on the benzworld.org forums and like you said theres to many diffrent opinions and recommendations, that you just dont know whos right, so this is my Problem , i got ah mercedes benz c320 2002 i just got it and it wont shift its only on first gear and reverse so im assuming its Limp mode , so this is what i did, i dropped the transmission oil pan cleand the pan changed the filter it had no magnets and the oil had alot of metal particles so i got a tshirt and used it like a filter to clean out the metal particles it got clean i put the tray back on with no magnet cause i dont have one and i made a mistake and put the transmission oil in the engine oil dipstick thing :( since it had no dipstick so now im stuck, i dont know what to do first i though i can only use mercedes benz tranny oil from the dealer but i seen your video on the valvoline max life oil so im gonna go with that, i drained the engine oil i hope i didnt mess up the engine i didnt move it cause it wouldn't move since it had no tranny fluid in the pan it turnd on but it wouldn't shift at all so i just turnd it off and started doing research and seen i made that mistake on puting it in the wrong hole, so what do you suggest i do ? im looking at this video do i go under the tranny and check if the 13wire adapter has oil? and check under my seat for the mogul thing? to also see if it has oil? what do i do ?can i clean it up and see if it makes ah difference please help me im super confused and i wanna get it done myself since im in Ensenada mexico right across the boarder from San diego there isnt many benz here and definitely no mercedes dealers, so to get parts its a pain in the ass and i have already SUBSCRIBED :)
wow you are so cool, that sounds great, I have only been promoting my YouTube Channel on Google Plus and Twitter, not so much Face Book, but i do know Face Book is still King when it comes to promotion, I just have not jumped on it yet, I did try promoting my channel on Sprinter Forums but posting some links, I did not do a good job at it so i am not sure if it helped or not, But sound like your a smart help and Just the Promoting help I need, I think your awesome for trying to help me I will link my FaceBook in Next comment I kinda dont know it lol I know that sounds Bad But here is my twitter, https://twitter.com/_ZIMALETA_ On Face Book it might be Serge Kalashnik I did create ZIMALETA one but I am kinda confused when it comes to Face Book lol, I need to do Instagram as well I have Instagram acc _ZIMALETA_ so far i have been slacking when it comes to instagram, But when I get my new Phone I will be working on promoting all my social Media, I Have Pre Ordered New Samsung Galaxy Note 7, I Travel allot cross country now I will have a phone that can keep Up with better Data Plan, that will be on 19th, BTW thanks for watching my Videos and getting me Likes, I been working on this Channel sense Fab 1 2016, AND It has been a HUGE Learning Curve for me, I had to learn everything, I am prity good with Technology But I never used photo shop or Video Editing software, and this year I had to learn all that, I am happy to say I am doing good with that side, soon it will be noticeable on my channel, I really do Hope to take this Channel to the Next Level and Really help you guys out, and hopefully I can make new Friends here, and we can have a good fun time chatting and sharing ideas, I really think it will be Fun, BTW as I am sending you this message I am UPLOADING the Q & A Video Reply for you, your C320 will be in the Tittle description, the Video was shot with My Iphone, Cause I wanted to make sure I can Upload it today, but its Like 40 mins Long lol I did not plan on a long Video, But trust me it wont waste your time its JAM PACKED with Great Info for you, I tryed really hard to really explain things in an easy to understand way for you, BUT if you have any questions be sure to ask I will get to you right away, have a good time at work, I am at STARBUCKS trying to Upload that VIDEO and it will take a while even do the UPLOAD speed is like 5GB and that is not Bad lol 11 More Mins and it will be Uploaded I hope you like it lol, and Again its Great to meet you I hope you will enjoy my channel, and If you have tips for me let me know I am really trying hehe.
sounds good man ill be waiting on that video, :) ill be checking out all your videos to learn ah bit more about mercedes and also giveing them all thumbs up ! im gonna help you out and spread the word of your youtube Channel in the forum's so you can get more views and subscriber's, i will make something work for you no dough, ill create like a Facebook Group called Mercedes Benz Worldwide, put on the description that the group is for any questions they have and they can share videos and so on , and start draging mercedes owners into the group if you have a facebook send me your user name so i can add you and we can start doing this its gonna help you alot on there and on youtube , i got 2 sucesfull groups on facebook i have created so im pretty good at this its the least i can do talk to you later bud gotta go to work :) cheers
Whats up man you are awsome, this seams complicated to explain but its not hard to do, i think you will be ok, i will make a Video Reply to you so you can see exactly what you will need to do, thanks so much for subscribing you made my day :)
Wow This is Great, thank you so much for watching, I get Exited if I helpd sometimes, This is so cool you have a JEEP with NAG 1, I herd there were some 5 Cyl Diesel JEEPS, But I never seen one, and its so cool you got a NAG 1, Belive it or not a Transmission Shop tryed Charging me $3700 to get this Part Fixd and its $150 bucks or less for this part just do the work your self, I am glad it workd for you.
Just wondering why did, you replace conductor plate was there problems before? Yes i do have idea, if you removed cilinoids and put them in the wrong way could do it, also when u install the valve body you need to make sure you put it in right so that the mettle shifter will go into a plastic pice, i hope this makes sence, if you remove oil pan u can see if you installed it, because if its wrong it wont shift, let me know if this helps or if you made sure to install silinoids right way
This really applies to my case:(If you have no Power week 2007-2009 Sprinter Talk to me and i will tell you exactly whats wrong and what you need to do to fix it, might cost you $5 bucks for the part and you will have power again,i did this for my 2007 and it roars like a brand new mustang lol, after being so week and barely pulling away from the light on straight road, i fixed it and i was told it could not be done, if you want a video on this let me know, i want to help you guys.)
I have 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500, any suggestion? Thanks
I am glad you were able to explain what is going on, Most likely if you check your check engine code, you will get Turbo Over boost condition, so you have a huge Turbo Leak and I beet i know where it is, your problem most likely is right at the actual Turbo, on 2007 Model sometimes the pipe removes from the actual Turbo, it will be located under your air filter where you fuel filter is on top of the Engine, If this is not the case, then you have air leek some where in the piping, I hope this helps let me know after you check it if it helpd you, and consider Subscribing you will make my DAY :)))))
Hi, please share your video, I have a 2007 Sprinter and just got this issue, turbo seems like is not working anymore after a short time after I start driving, if I stop and turn off the engine and restart, it will work for a while and than, it goes again no turbo.I replaced the turbo resonator, did not fixed the issue.
you right about that, thats how it is something with does guys, well sounds like you can just buy a used speedometer and try that, just make sure if you have 04-06 you buy the right one dont buy for 06 from 2002-2003 it wont work but 2004-2006 works fine
Hello my friend
Unfortunately, I do not know why the dashboard light is COMPLETELY off, what I know it happens long ago, almost six months or even more. One electrician tried to fix it by accessing the DB; however he said that is not a fuse, it needs a troubleshooting, which he said may cost me based on the time spend on troubleshooting, I thought it will be like an infinitive tax meter, running with no ends
it all depends how much time you have and how handy you are, this sprinter is not hard to work on if you know what your doing, and i know allot about sprinter but theres still lots i am learning, but i have lots of experience sence 2007, I have experienced many problems but not all, why is your dash board off?
+Zainelabdin Zarroug sounds like a possible limp mode, if it is on your Dash it will tell you you are in D but it wont shift gears, if so you might need to clean the conductor plate and reset the codes on computer, but not every computer can do it, the once that can cost 1k or more.
If you have no Power week 2007-2009 Sprinter Talk to me and i will tell you exactly whats wrong and what you need to do to fix it, might cost you $5 bucks for the part and you will have power again,i did this for my 2007 and it roars like a brand new mustang lol, after being so week and barely pulling away from the light on straight road, i fixed it and i was told it could not be done, if you want a video on this let me know, i want to help you guys.
This applies to me
thanks so much for the awesome comment, i hope I will, if you have a question feel free to ask, i check on my Channel all the time. enjoy and please like my videos :) and Subscribe, this will help for others to find my videos by liking. thanks :)
Xtremely Didacted Video!!!Congrats!!My Master: I had today my First Limp Tranny on 05 Sprinter,,,Wont release Fisrt Gear in midle of high Speed Way,,so,,I light de Warning Ligths and carefully stoped on the secure Exit!!
Previusly saw the Tranny Conmute Conector and,,,,was PLENTY of Oil,,!I carefully Cleaned it and,,,READY!!
Now I understend PERFECTLY on Your Tutorial Video and I'm more than HAPPY to enjoy it each detail on it,,,God Bless You man!!
Regards from Tj.Mex. just in case: [email protected],,,Ed Peres
thanks so much my friend for a nice comment on my video, this is whats its all about is helping my fellow Sprinter Brothers, i am so glad it helped you, this channel is dedicated to Sprinters and in time this will be a very nice Sprinter souse, and i will get better with video and video editing, i am creative and it wont take long for me to be good at editing and making insightful videos that are shorter but still jam packed with information, I want to pass on all my Sprinter Knowledge, and I am sure some of you will teach me a thing or 2 lol thats how it is we learn from each other, Please Like and Subscribe to my Channel it will mean allot to me :)))
i cant seem to locate my tcm on a 2010 Sprinter CDI 3.0 722.6 transmission, can you help me, vehicle is in limp mode, i changed the valve body complete unit, but it wont pass first gear!!!! scanned with a handheld code was lost communication with transmission, i bought the xentry diagnostic software tool now it is not communicating with the electronic transmission control module, only ECU and other modules, and advise would be much appreciated!!
Thats great News I hope you wont have any more trouble out of it, but if you do please let me know, i would like to help if i can. Question does this model have DEF and if it does and you dont want it i know how to get rid of DEF system.
your so welcome, I am glad you got it worked out, i was beginning to worry sometimes the problem gets so bad where you dont know where to start or why its happening, I had a problem with my Fuse pannel in my 2007 before it was 800 bucks just for the part it went out and cause all my lights not to work and other electrical problems, so everything is now working? its great to know, and Good Job!!!!
i got the van up and running ,perfectly, the esp had some fault codes, needed to be reset, so the fix were as follow : replaced valve body complete, replace fuse for power to tcm. and scan tool to clear all the codes, imglad this solved my problem, without the worries of re coding etc...thanks again for your help i will definitely follow your videos..
wow thats crazy, the thing is i see ESP light come on on my van all the time with ABS and ASR but theres no change to my power, but cruse control wont work and no ABS, so not sure why your ESP Blinking, I will tell you one thing, if check Engine light is on its more like, hey check it out maybe a problem, but if Check Engine light blinks its a problem, same thing here a blinking ESP light means you have a problem, but what i am wondering about what kind of limp mode are you in, Because transmission limp mode means you cant get passed 1st gear, and it will just say D on dash it wont show you what gear you in, and you will drive it till 4k ARPMs easy but your saying its 1k RPM so sounds like you dont have transmission problem but its something else, let me know how this all started from the bigining the first sighns of problems before everything went wrong, also, not all scan gages will show you transmission codes, you need a good one from that like transmission shops use about 1k for one or more, i want to help you properly diagnose your sprinter.
I had a problem like this one time, I was replacing an injector in cylinder 3 and I got a used injector from a friend he insured me it was good, and I know he knows sprinters to so I trusted him, well I had no chose he was nice and gave to me for free, so anyways I installed it, and I could not get it started, I call my friend and ask you sure it's a good injector he is like yes, so I keep trying for 2 days to start it with no luck, then I bought a used injector $150 on eBay, and the guy told me if it don't work he will trade for another, so I installed that one and it started, then I had a problem, my van was smoking like huge clouds of white smoke like a chimney in Siberia lol it was bad, and bad enuf if I drove like that it would not be visible to other driver in the back of me, lol I look under the sprinter and what i see is red hot muffler, so by now I am sure you get it, the old injector was stuck on open and this is why my van would not start and it was flushing my cylinder 3 with diesel, then it got no where to go but the host pipe, so that's why so much smoke diesel was burning inside my pipe lol, But with starting problems this is not always the case, sometimes it's electrical, try doing this, undo your fuel line at the fuel rail and put a cap on the fuel rail for that side of fuel injector and try starting it with 4 injectors, this was no diesel can get to fuel injector and you can be sure that's not the problem, and if it starts then you know this is the problem, but the very first thing you should do is read the codes, look for code with Fuel rail pressure to low, and if that's the case then you got a fuel leek somewhere, this is why it can't build fuel rail pressure, yes it can be other causes as well but you must look at the first thing you did before no start condition, and in your case it replacement of fuel injector, may I ask why your rep,acing it?
if it keeps cranking and no start its a good chance still bad fuel injector, what happens it get stuck on open and fuel rail pressure cant build up so there for it wont start, and you may be fluding your cylinders with diesel, then after you start it will be lots of white smoke, 2006 fuel injectors dont need programming, just put a new one in or a good used one and thats it, keeping in mind you know how to install fuel injector properly, cause there is a right and a wrong way to do it, let me know if you need me to explain it.
+Brian Hakkari I never registerd my injectors, unless you are talking about programing the fuel injectors, like 2007 and up you just can't remove any injector and put it where u chose, you must put them in same plase you remove them from but if you buy new, you must program that injector for the corect cylinder, but 2002-2006 lucky us we don't need all that, I hope that answers your question, if not please explain what you mean
+Brian Hakkari YAY, I am so glad you were able to remove it!!! Great Job!!! It's so awesome to see that you were able to do it, most people when trying to remove oil pan, cant, because they don't know about the oil pump under the pan, that it's in the way, they think it's the cross member under the pan, wow I am impressed by you!
You were in my mind to tell you . i did yesterday so easy. I left transmission i have had enough spaces to remove oil pump . abd it had 3 bolt two by right side one by left. I moved oil pan to the right in order open btolt of oil pump. And to left to open third bolt of oil pump. Then it come out so easy. I didnt i imagin brother
well you can do that but the motor mounts are still in the way, and with Transmission being there it will be super hard to remove, i wish it was easy, when my transmission was removed, it made it easier for me because i could rock the engine back and forth
I have a question its possible to open engine oil pan on sprinter, without remove engine from body. which technician I should I do Thanks for all video God Bless you. Pleas could you make one video for future
+Brian Hakkari if I understand you corectly you are trying to remove Engine Oil Pan without removing an Engine? Yes it is Posible, I have a video how I removed Engine Oil Pan, it's Not easy to remove it, because when you undo all Bolts, there's plastic pump inside the oil pan it will be in the way, but I went behind the Engine, because I did not have a transmission there, and it made it Posible for me to reach under oil pan from the back and undo oily bolts from inside, and it's hard to see them, I went by feal, I hope this helps,
Dear Sir:Thank you for your prompt reply. My supervisor did tell me of a European Auto shop in town that has the right software and equipment to clear my codes. I have another question: I carelessly left the transmission housing on the vehicle uncovered to the elements. Can I flush the inside with transmission fluid to remove any dirt or sand that I assume have entered there. Also, without taking the valve body apart, can I DIP the whole valve body in a 5 gallon container of ATF to flush clean it of any dirt. Also, if you have any photos of the placement of SOLENOIDS on the conductor plate, may I request you to email it to me: [email protected] do you order OEM parts for your Sprinter. Thank you very much. Best wishes in all your endeavors.
+Christopher Brillantes No problems I just want to help you guys if you have questions, I never had to deal with a transmission that was wet, most likely you will be ok, but it wont be ok if water got inside of the solenoids, because they have electronic part and that might cause them to go out, or if they are dry to long, but you might need to pull your valve body off if the oil pan was of, but if the transmission was removed and was uncovered but with oil pan still on you should be ok, I don't see how that can damage anything, but if you need to pull the valve body its easy, I can make a video pulling the valve body if that will help you, and yes soaking it in a gallon of oil would help
Now heres a nice tool to have $4k original price $2,360 on sale price lol now thats what i am talking about
Autel Maxisys Pro MS908P Smart Vehicle Diagnostics and ECU Programming System with Blutooth / WIFI Wireless Android Diagnostic Scanner Maxisys
MAXI DOS NewEgg has it for 1k this will be a nice tool to have i will be buying one even do i am not a machanic i like gadgets lol and it may be helfull in my serch to answer many sprinter problems
Dear Sir:I have a 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500. I am the original owner. In late 2013 it went on a limp mode. The local Dodge dealership technician here in Las Vegas, NV, mentioned that the Hydro Electric Module (Conductor Plate) needs to be replaced. I was being charged $1100 for the repair. I bought the conductor plate, and removed it myself. After putting it back together, it is still on limp mode. Someone told me that the PCM Fault Code can only be reset by Dodge or Mercedes Benz Sprinter dealership shop or certified Sprinter Shop. Any input from you would help a lot. This has been my family van. But ever since we bought, it's been very problematic (LEMON to be exact). Now I am eyeing the new Mercedes Benz Sprinter 4X4. But I am a little skeptical. I will continue reading and watching how you went about resolving your Sprinter issue. Best wishes, Chris B.
+Christopher Brillantes ok your problem is easy, and you did everything corctly by doing it your self 1100 is to much, but Mercedes charges $900 for conductor plate, for some reson dodge charge more on everything lol i am serious, but anyways back to limp mode yes it will still be in limp mode and transmission module thats under the seat the codes needs to be cleared on it, then everything will be good, if the conductor plate was the problem and usialy it is, so in your case, No The dealer is not the only place to reset it, only this is the case with 7 speed transmission, your lucky you have 5 speed and this one its easier to deal with, you can buy the computer for 1k to clear codes your self from Harbor Tools but most dont have 1k for new computer, so, call around your local area to some transmission shops and ask if they do free diagnostics, and if they do ask them nicely if they can clear your codes , also it dont need to be a transmission shop but that is a good start any mechanical shop can do it, if you lived in Charlotte NC i know a place to send you to that can clear it for $50 bucks, but he has a computer thats 13k or something its kinda special lol, but any snap on computer or Maxi DOS i will leave the link in top
Can you please explain it in detail, and provide any check engine light codes or other information, if I can help great but some of my viewers help out to, so it’s a good chance someone here knows what’s going on just need more info
other starting problems, Is your Van not Starting and what i mean is you turn the key nothing happens but a clicking sound, each time you turn you hear a click? i have this in one of my videos, but try adding an extra wire cable from firewall to your engine, try replacing your ingnetion switch and relay, or you just need a new starter
OK Back to No Start Electrical problem, heres the symptoms, if you try to start and it acts like a dead battery i mean your dash will flicker and make ticking sound then disconnect battery assuming you have new Hazard light switch assembly this is in one of my videos i show you how to replace it, if its bad your van wont start, also your under dash all fuzes plugs into it so its important pice and not hard to replace
Testing Fuel injectors continued, now injectors can be difficult thing to do, only because if you cant remove them, if you have stuck injectors, but if they remove easy then just do this, buy one brand new injector, install it in cylinder 1, connect everything try starting it then if no start remove the new injector and install it in second cylinder and reinstall the previous one in original hole, at this point dont worry about injector seals or new bolts we are just testing if no start then just remove new injector from cylinder one and put original one back after cleaning it up. then remove 3rd injector and install new injector there and so on if you do this i hope it starts if it doesent then try all new injectors if still now start new fuel rail, if still no start new high pressure fuel pump, now only if you have the parts to try on, but if you dont have have it then ask your self this maybe its time for a dealer or are you ready to spend money just throwing parts at it, i would to tell you the truth, i would throw parts at it, using educated guess, but heres what i found every dealer i had my van workd on dont know what they are doing, and they just throw parts at it, one of my friends left with same problem he had after dealer replaced computer and bunch of other stuff leaving him with 7k bill, so i been fixing everything myself its a rip off if they dont know what they are doing and you will pay for there expansive parts and there high cost laybor, bad thing is if they dont know what there doing and you still got the problem they will just keep throwing parts at it till its fegurd out
ok back to no start, if its just cranking and cranking and does not start it can be many things, but lets narrow it down, and there is many ways of doing tests but hears some you can do, if it does not start, it might be fuel injectors or High presure fuel pump and fuel rail, it can be as simple as Fuel filter, Guys always have a spare fuel filter on hand, so do this, install new fuel filter and still no start next use starting fluid if it does start then its injectors most likely, but dont take my word for it, hears this injector will run you $350 bucks or more, fuel rail $900, Fuel filter $1900 re manufactured, lol you tell me what you want the problem to be there all expensive so lets narrow it down again, and this will be a long one, first do the cheapest thing and that is (fuel filter sensor and fuel rail sensor) replace them if no start, make sure, you have new fuel filter installed new, sensors new Mas Air flow sensor, check your Air Filter, this is just the basics, replace cam shaft sensor, (I am just covering step by step my guide what i would do to fix this, this is guising you have no special computer to diagnose i am speeking to DIY people like me with no special tools or no mechanical experience, ok next remove High pressure fuel pump, check the 6 bolts in the back of the high pressure fuel pump thats facing the engine, ok next reinstall it if everything is good, if you have a spare one that you know works install it, next Fuel rail make sure new sensors are installed, if yes move on to fuel injectors if that dont start. i will cover this in next comment
If you have no Power week 2007-2009 Sprinter Talk to me and i will tell you exactly whats wrong and what you need to do to fix it, might cost you $5 bucks for the part and you will have power again,i did this for my 2007 and it roars like a brand new mustang lol, after being so week and barely pulling away from the light on straight road, i fixed it and i was told it could not be done, if you want a video on this let me know, i want to help you guys.
Guys i owned 2002-2003 Sprinter 2004 to 2006 and 2007-2009, my first sprinter was 2007 i put 350k on it, i know the problems with that V6 Model Trust me, the DEF problem i did not deal with but i can give you advice to keep your system running or what to do to keep it from freezing in the winter and not look at the annoying 5 Starts left on dash problem, basically DEF is piss like horse piss or rat piss i herd both lol, they found a way to sell you piss and made it a LAW lol
One more Starting issue out of many that Sprinter can have, Lets look at this scenario, Lets say you Start your van off No problem but it shuts of ether right away, usually right away, or 5 mins later, good chances are, (your Mas Air Flow sensor just went out or about to, do this to start it, and keep it running, disconnect Mass Air Flow Sensor, wire, i was going to make videos on this and still will, let me know all your problems guys and i will talk about them in the video, my videos maybe long, but i want to be your friend and tell you everything that i know one hr with me can save you a trip to the dealer, lol i hope hehe. but really mostly you will save money by talking to me or watching my videos.
hello Guys about starting issues, like +iludjik said he had a starting issues and he got his *crankshaft position sensor* replaced, question is how should you know exactly that this is the problem, well theirs several ways to tell, diagnosing for *crankshaft position sensor* would be this if your van is not starting up in the Summer time or nice warm day but not cold, on a cold start, it should start right up, and this goes for any diesel, now lets say you start driving, look for this on your dash (your speedometer gauge will act jumpy like RPM Gauge, but just look for little jumps, its a good indication that you have a problem with *crankshaft position sensor* ok now if the speedometer jumps really bad you will see another thing (your transmission will shift weird and erratically) making you think you now have a transmission problem, but not to worry, now next step so your driving and you come to a gas station you shut your van off, and trying to start it and BOOM no start again, now in this situation it could be many things but, what we talkd about here if everything is happening like i mensiond there is a good chance its your *crankshaft position sensor, so just change your *crankshaft position sensor about $50 Part and hope your problem is gone, but sprinters can be confusing and really hard to diagnose, red more in my next comment
hello. i live in sacramento california. i own 2002 sprinter. i just got it back from shop. had cranks no start problem. it was camshaft position sensor. i also have sometimes issue with transmition stuck in like 3ed gear. so i will check my 13 pin connector for oil. any other advises what to do? Please do more videos of no start problem and other comen problem sprinters have so we all can fix our selfes and not pay a lot to shop. thanks for stuff you do.
your so welcome and i am glad that its helpful that what i want my channel to be about if i can help you save money by doing it your self and that makes you happy then i am happy, God Bless you to and your family!
+ZIMALETA & Agnessa Kalashnik. when it happens i have to stop put it in park shot down engine than start again and all shifts perfect. maybe i will take challenge some day and take it apart and do what you said about cleaning. by the way it also some times slips between 2 and 3 gears same as you had told in one of videos. cleaning is good but will it fix slipping problem?
+iludjik about your transmission, beeing stuck in 3rd gear sometimes , do you have this problem, you driving and it was in 5th gear but you look down now its in 4th or 3rd even, you move your shifter it wont shift, 722 transmission its electronic hydraulic transmission, try doing this pull over put in park then back in drive, does it stay in D now did that fix your problem if yes, you got 2 problems, dirty transmission Oil or low Oil, and thats at best, you may also have dirty speed sensor, and if your transmission is still shifting chances are its not 13 pin connector, how ever yes take a look at it for sure that cant be ignored simple cheep part to replace, Also advice always change 13 pin connector at each oil change, its recommended that you replace oil every 30k miles, but you can do it at 60 and then replace 13 pin connector that what i do, but keep one 13 pin connector with you at all times as a spare, you just never know, if it ever breaks then your oil will be all leeking out and you will be stranded, best to have it replace it if it breaks. did this help you? BTW always drain your torque converter at every oil change,
But for you i recommend if your up for a challenge, remove oil pan remove 13 pin connector then remove Valve body 11 bolts, then clean wall body using brake cleaner, and then clean your silinoids and speed sensor and remove all silinoids make sure you dont mix them up and clean all electrical connectors, after cleaning it use a fresh oil of trany fluid and make valve body soak in it after you put conductor plate back with all the silinoids, all do this is extra step it will keep your transmission silinoyds from being dry and it should help not make grunting noises when it shift, but even if it makes noises its ok they will go away and some of that noise its normal to have anyway.
+iludjik thanks so much for this nice comment, just reading beginning of your text i already had 2 advice to give you for the no start condition that is electrical and 2 that is mechanical, i really appreciate this comments and questions from you guys my main purpose is to teach you the solution to the common sprinter problems, i will add some more comments about starting problems up top.
Sechskies Eun Ji Won and rookie singers Lee Soo Hyun and Kim Eun Bi performed the third OST single titled "Love Song". The rookies, who are both training to debut in HYWY Entertainments girl group HYWY Girls, joined the veteran to sing about falling in love with an unlikely person. The rhythmic medium temp track is the perfect tune to make your spring days even brighter.
As a child, there was a portrait in our family home in Paris that I always loved. Today, it’s known as Maya with Doll – but to me it was just a portrait of my mother, albeit a remarkable one. “Your grandfather was a painter,” she would say, whenever the subject of the canvas, one of many that hung around the house, came up in discussion. It was only when I began school, and whispers about my heritage started to follow me, that I realised what an understatement that was. My grandfather was far more than a painter. He was the defining figure of 20th-century art – and, as I would learn later from years of academic study, a true genius. It was a revelation that would shape the course of my life in many ways. When Picasso died – in 1973, the year before I was born – he left behind 45,000 works, not to mention personal objects and correspondence.